Bearded Dragons originated and are native to Australia, but as
their export is now banned, all Bearded Dragons sold in the UK are those that
are born in captivity.
They are actually Lizards. If looked after correctly, they can
live on average for around 15 years.
They are Omnivorous - they not only eat insects, but also
flowers, greenery and fruits.
Bearded Dragons got their name from their distinctive throat
that they can "flair" out to make them look bigger. They do this if they are
threatened, or if they are displaying to sexually mature females.
Beardies are also Ectotherms, which, like all lizards, mean
they require an external heat source to warm their bodies.
Housing
A Bearded Dragon (especially in a cold climate), needs to live
in a special tank called a Vivarium. The ideal size of which that holds 2 or 3
full size dragons is about 6 foot long, 2 foot wide and 2 foot deep.
Inside the tank you will need, as a minimum, the following .....
-
A floor substrate - children's play sand is ideal
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Uv light
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Incandescent light, or heat lamp, with heat reflector
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Thermostat
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Auto timers to turn off / on lights at predetermined times
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Stones, Rocks and Wood
-
Water Dish
The UV light will provide as near a substitute for sunlight as
is possible - but the incandescent lamp / heat lamp will provide heat. This is
probably the single most important aspect - unless your Bearded Dragon has it's
body temperature at the around the 100° mark, they may not eat.
Whilst the UV light can be placed in the centre of the ceiling,
the heat source should ideally be placed at one end of the tank - this will then
allow for a "hot spot" at one end, with a cooler at the opposite side. The
Bearded Dragon can then enter it's own comfort zone.
The lights should be left on for around 14 hours a day. If not
using a heat lamp, the use of a red bulb should be used at night to continue to
provide warmth.
Feeding
The main points to consider when feeding .....
-
Dragons are Omnivorous - they will need to eat both prey and
also vegetable matter.
-
Any food given (especially prey food) must be smaller than
the dragons mouth.
-
Calcium and vitamin supplements must be offered with food.
-
Fresh clean water must always be provided.
The different types of prey foods are .....
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Baby mice (Pinkies)
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Crickets
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Mealworms
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Waxworms
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Locusts
The different types of greens are .....
-
Dandelion
-
Cress
-
Kale
-
Leaf lettuce
-
Tops Of Carrots
When feeding greens, always chop them up as fine and as small as
possible - prey foods should if possible be given "live" - any dead prey is
likely to be ignored.
Our Dragon is fed daily - he is so used to this that he is
willing to literally eat out of your hand.
Remember to "dust" with calcium powder all food, and
don't put
many loose crickets in the vivarium at the same time - they bury and hide, and
bite on the Dragon at night.
Handling
Most Dragons will tolerate being handled - they rarely bite or
scratch, and they seem to enjoy the handling and warmth of a human hand.
Simply handle and support the Dragon from the underneath, but
remember never pick up by the tail - this may come off, and never grow back.
Shedding Skin
Bearded Dragons, like all lizards, shed their skin. The
frequency of shedding depends on the age and growth rate of your dragon. Fast
growing babies can shed every two weeks!
It is best to leave them alone during this period - the Dragon
will rub themselves against any rock you have inside the Viviarium to help
loosen the skin.
Keep your eye on the skin around their toes - it is possible
that they can have trouble shedding their skin from this area. If the skin fails
to shed, it will constrict the toes and nails, and so kill the tissue by
strangling the blood supply to them.
If you do start having trouble, a light spray with water may
help, but do not be tempted to pull the skin off yourself.
